Destroyed Ford F-30 LRDG with Bofors 37mm (UK, WW2)

 3D printed destroyed vehicle for WW2 games in 28mm. Plant based gray elegoo resin.

Sprayed camo tan Krylon paint and primer combo. Washed with Secret Weapon (SW) Dark Sepia brushed up and touch ups SW light Dust. Weathering with Forge World (FW) weathering powder Black Soot. Edge highlights for damages SW Engine Metal. Ground cover Army Painter (AP) Highland Tufts and Lowland Shrubs.

A few other projects on the desk. Notably a WW2 german Sd.Kfz.9 from the same file collection. Its really illustrative in terms of how massive that vehicle really was compared to other vehicles in its class. 

Also appearing are a couple of “nearly dones” from the Junkfort, some fishing boats and a small ship for use with Blood and Plunder and general Roleplaying games.

Back to the grind!

Junkfort and color

 Adding some color to the Junkfort today. Initially I did a heavy rust weathering but it was a bit too monochrome. Adding in some colors to add some visual depth and make the barricades more interesting.

The corrugated panels could be a lot of colors and even different materials like metal or fiberglass so there is a lot of potential there. I’m wrestling with colors for the recliners and sofas since there is already a lot of earthtones.

Back to the desk!

Mixed Stone Ruin Process

 After working for a long time in the Greystone Village format I started thinking that I needed some other complimentary stone colors to liven the place up!

This is a step by step of the process used to get to the end state you see on the left.  

This is a very fast process but gave a solid result.

The model is a ruined doorway from the Reaper Bones 4 Kickstarter Fantasy Scenics set.

I undercoated this with Krylon Camo Brown paint/primer.

Picked out some areas of color with 4 basic colors.

Stormy Grey (Reaper(R)), Grey Mist (R), Handle Wood (R), and Krylon Camo Brown. (This is the undercoat color and was not re-applied... just left "bare")

 Stormy Grey is a very dark grey, Grey Mist is a lighter grey with a fair bit of blue added. Handle Wood is a very light brown that is almost tan and the Krylon Camo Brown is a very dark bark brown.

Base coats of the greys were brushed on damp while the handle wood was wet stippled on to give the uneven coverage an irregular rocky texture instead of weak brush strokes.

First highlight layer:

Sky Gray (R) Drybrush over all grays.

Sunny Skin Tone (Vallejo (V)) Drybrush over all browns except the "ground" part of the base.

This starts tying the different colors together so they will look like they've been standing in a pile together for a long time.  The underlying color differences are reduced a little but still have a variegated appearance.

Lining:

Sewer Water Wash (Secret Weapon (SW))

Line all rocks and cracks edge the divots. This is fast and easy and uses a mid size brush with a decent tip just wipe off any excess that looks like a brush stroke.

Damp brush Saddle Brown (R) over the "Ground"

Of course more could be done with the ground but this is a generic game piece that to look at home in a dungeon, a jungle, or in the frozen wilds so it remains neutral here.

Final Step before sealer!

Lightly drybrush the whole model with Splintered Bone (R) focus a little extra coverage on the tops, edges, and broken stone to make them pop.

Splintered Bone is a bright off-white color.

Reaper Dwarf for scale.

Epicast Stompa revisited

While unpacking the workshop I rediscovered an old friend from 40K 2nd Edition... Its from Epicast back in the bad old days when GW licensed a few outside companies Like Epicast, and, later, Armorcast to produce stuff that occurred in the fluff but GW itself was not producing.  Eventually all of those licenses were withdrawn and consolidated back into what we now know as Forge World.

These early models came with rules in the form of Data Sheets so they could be played, with the consent of your opponent, without any new rule books being required.

Second edition was the high water mark of the cartoon style for 40k and my Orks were as cartoon-y as they come. These first couple of pictures are of the Stompa appear (with the addition of the beginnings of some lining that I started before remembering to snap a photo) as I played it for decades.  Bright primary colors and almost zero weathering, highlighting, or shading.  The roof tiles over the rear assualt doors were perhaps the only attempt at weathering.  

This was not entirely a sacrifice on the altar of speed.  The cartoon style really relied on mass color coding with a very small number of spot details as focal points... much like Anime does even now. I wanted to update this old can a bit so it didn"t look super incongruous with my current Orks but retained its 2 ed. roots.

Below is the result.

As you can see I chose not to start over from scratch and just continued on over the old paint.

I started with a lot of Brown Rust (Secret Weapon(SW)) to move the nearly monochrome green into a two color scheme, jazz up the freehand chevrons, and to make the iron jaws of the skull a bit more fearsome. This was all large brush stippling.

Following the Brown Rust I did a full model Drybrush with Silver (Vallejo(V)) followed by a full model wash with Armor Wash (SW) and then wiped away the excess wash with a paper towel.  

Orange Rust (SW) was stippled in the central areas of any Brown Rust areas, Phoenix Red (V) stippled over red areas. 

Brass Casing (SW) was used to touch up and shade gold areas and Engine Metal (SW) touched up and highlighted all metal areas. The battlecannon barrel mouth got some thin coats of Orange Heat (SW) fading into Purple Heat (SW) fading into the base green.  The entire model then was lined with Rust Shadow (SW) with extra effort directed at establishing a more detailed impression of a blade track for the chainsword.

The model has always been unsteady on its feet and prone to falling over so in a final omage to 2nd ed., and to play with my newly rediscovered static grass applicator, I  grabbed a big oval bass and loaded it up with 2mm static grass.  In 2nd. ed almost all the armies I encountered, including my own, were straight up flocked unlike the more significant efforts expended on modern bases.

Here is the completed model with some Ork Burna Boyz making their wicked way into the Undertown... gonna be a bad day for someone!

 Back to the desk!

Cheers

A-Z Mart (Weathered)

The first building out of the gate for the Post Apocalypse terrain set is the A-Z Mart (weathered) from the "Survival" line over at Antenocitis' Workshop

This is a super cool model with great details and a lot of playable interior space.

 In addition to the usual great photo print details there is a lot of damaged glass for the windows and the doors to the coolers, which give a really convincing 3D effect to the coolers.

The building is Prepainted MDF which really means that the MDF is covered with a single color surface process that helps make it look less like MDF and when you go to do some additional painting its a great starting point.

 For this building I've gone with the prepainted color scheme and just added some weathering, decals (Antenocitis Workshop and Ginfritter's Gnomish Workshop), and the odd bit of flat art to that.

Weathering was accomplished mostly with Forge World Weathering Powders Medium Earth, Black Soot, Red Rust, and Orange Rust.

I didn't additionally weather the glass because the cracking effects might be obscured.

The Newsboxes on the outside are also from Antenocitis Workshop and I used some of the photo elements from the A-Z Mart to create newspapers and other signs on them.

The Newsboxes are very heavily weathered like the pay phones from the previous post using the same technique but with red instead of blue.

The AC unit on this model has been swapped for one of the MDF units from the Lazy Dog Saloon.  The AC unit provided with the model is resin cast and has a sleeker rounded look and a lower, longer shape.

Next up is the Pristine version of this building and LED retrofits to the Undertown table.

Data Trust interior details

 The interior resin details are done for the Data Trust.

I replaced the little searchlight that I had scratch built to use as a grip for removing the roof with a resin and metal drone control and coms array.  The dish antennas may prove tricky in the long run and complicate storage so I may, at some point, add magnets to these... I'm not certain of the benefit vs the risk of damage as the dishes are metal and there is some weight stress on the connection points that might not be great for magnets... we'll see I suppose.

The control point was painted over a black primer with Orange Heat (Secret Weapon) which is a really interesting technical paint I highlighted with Orange Rust (Secret Weapon) and glazed with Orange Wash (Secret Weapon) lining was Rust Shadow (Secret Weapon) which is fast becoming my favorite liner.

The dishes are metal primed black dry brushed with Silver (Vallejo) washed with Armor Wash (Secret Weapon) red panels are Blood Red (Reaper) glaze of Orange Heat, glaze of Orange Rust liner with Rust Shadow. 

Grey Panels Stormy Grey (Reaper) Brush up with Sky Grey (Reaper)

  I love that you can see details through the open windows and that is my motivation to eventually add LED lighting... once I find the bits!

Raging Heroes Void Elf for scale today.

Exterior Weathering is mostly Forge World Weathering Powders, primarily Medium Earth.

Ground Floor interior details: Food Vending Machine, Large TV, Coffee Station, Interactive Table and two Bench Seats. Details glued to the walls except the table and seats which are magnetized and can be removed as required.

I had already constructed the doors before I looked at the contents of the resin upgrade pack.  The upgrade pack includes replacement door frames and doors that are armored. 

I decided to keep the office style doors that I had already installed and use the armored door elements later... maybe when building a NERVE (Neon Genesis Evangelion) outpost or SD-6 (Alias)style hidden facility.

Moral of the story... always check the upgrade sets before building the base structure!

Data Trust Upstairs interior features four Data Walls and a master interface terminal.  The Data Walls are glued in and the Interface Terminal is magnetized so it can be reoriented or removed.





There is still a lot more of the Undertown to do including an awesome Game Shop! but... its pretty playable at the moment so I think I'll veer into the Post Apocalypse buildings for a bit and get a baseline of buildings set up.  Since we're running Fallout:Wasteland Warfare from time to time I'd better get something more suitable for that built.

Back to the desk!

Modern and Post Apocalyptic vehicle wrecks and trash bins

 While the ubiquitous ruins frequently found on my table, and the tables of almost ever 40K player, can do great service as Post Apocalypse terrain I have just begun generating a more genre specific set primarily for use with Fallout: Wasteland Warfare, Gamma World, The Order of Vampire Hunters, and all things related to the Zombie Apocalypse.

 Starting with an old favorite Antenocitis Workshop from their Survival Vehicles category: Flipped Car, Bricked Merc, and Fender Bender.

These are really fun sculpts with lots of character and the resin material is the typical super high quality that comes from Antenocitis Workshop... smooth, very little cleaning required, and takes paint readily.








The base colors were accomplished via rattlecan Primer+Paint combos from Krylon and Rustoleum. Dry-Brushing to bring out the detail which was bloc painted in basic colors. 

Weathering started with Brown, Red, Yellow, and Orange Rust from Secret Weapon and finished with Forge World Powders Orange Rust for the Brick impact area, muffler cases and some parts of the iron beams.

 A quick side trip into an assortment of bins (Also from Antenocitis Workshop) which are useful across the genre barrier.  Sprayed Krylon Camo Green and dry-brushed these represent some common types of bins encountered in residential and shopping areas.

 Back to the wrecks!  The Flipped Car, shown with a Star Saga Veermyn lurking nearby, is covered in viney growths indicating that its been like this for quite a while.  It out of place in the Undertown and would be more at home in a junkyard or in a setting like Fallout.

 Fender Bender reminds me of the Yugo... if anyone remembers those... the implication is that the car was struck by the motorcycle and was bent by the impact... made of repurposed bubblegum wrapper!

... then there are metal beams and even a kitchen sink on it...

who know why those Plague guys are hanging out near it... but time to meet my little friend!

The Bricked Merc is fun and I wonder where all the brick came from... so I think I'll have to make a collapsing brick building in this theme just to have it sit near this one.

Plague Abomination and operative from Star Saga.

Its always fun working in a new theme.  I think a convenience store and a petrol station... and maybe a shanty saloon would make for a good start... oh and a mat...

Back to the desk!

Ork Mortars from Bitspudlo

 A while back I went looking to fill a gap in my Ork Lobbas.  I have three of the Forgeworld models magnetized to swap out between field carriages and the weapon mounts of the Gargantuan Squiggoth and I wanted another three in case I decided to use the Squiggoth and the field artillery... or just didn't feel like digging out the Squiggoth to swipe the guns for a game... anyway... I was surprised to be unable to locate them on either the Forgeworld or GW sites.

 I play a lot of legacy models and play in different editions of the game so I went looking for a replacement model and, after some sticker shock on Ebay, discovered Hexy Shop.  They carry a variety of third party conversion bits and a few complete models.  I located the Lobba replacement with a company out of Poland called Bitspudlo.  At $13.23 a pop I thought I'd give them a go.

The resin is good quality cleanly cast with sharp detail, a dry, and very paintable, surface but is a little on the brittle side and there were a few bubbles in the road wheels.  No major flaws and they fit the theme of the GW Orks with glyphs and a cobbled together appearance.

I painted them up in a state of very poor repair using the Secret Weapon rust line augmented with the GW Technicals; Ryza Rust, Tyhphus Corrosion, and Necron Compound.

All my basing supplies are packed so I'll have to base these on the other side of the house move. 







Packing up the house is going quickly now and my Ork models are all stowed so I grabbed, an about to be packed, Tinkerbell from the Twisted Game to use for scale. 

We're out house hunting so no updates for a couple of weeks... and then... I might... maybe... get one more out before everything is too packed up to continue working.

Cheers!

The Port House 3D Print

 I'm flinging paint at the model backlog in between bouts of pre-move prep so I have a half dozen projects in one stage or another of completion that I hope to finish before pack out.

This is The Port House from Rampage: The Lost Islands Kickstarter.  Rampage is very aggressive with releasing files and they often follow up the initial file release with some adjustments, improvement, or corrections soon after the initial offering. This is the 1.0 version of the Port House.  They have updated this, and several other models from the project, since I printed it and it seems that they have generally re-scaled the models for the more common Heroic scale.  That means that this model is a wee bit petite compared to my other buildings.  Its even a bit small compared to the Tabletop World buildings that are scaled for true 25mm.

 Since most of my games that use this style of build tend to be fantasy themed I'll imagine this as a mouseling, or gnome, building.  I'll have to do up some mouselings with timber floor bases!

Actually for gaming I probably should have moved to clear acrylic bases years ago... but I didn't... so now I'm not inclined to do so... maybe when I start a completely new army I'll give it a go but I'll otherwise keep trying to theme match the bases for the existing sets.

Gerystone and wood standard process.  I skipped out on plaster for this one and may go back and add it later... I had some print errors with this model and went with it being a bit run down.

 You can see the very wide back window area that looks like exposed wood... printer error... also some of the supports for the railing failed to survive the print and some outside wood supports and one face of each of the doors are a little fuzzy or deformed.  This was an early 'learn to print' model for me and I learned a lot.  Still, I think it'll be serviceable enough on the tabletop as part of the larger town so no need to let it go to waste!

For scale there are some Twisted minis, a couple of Lead Adventurer minis, and some Reaper Mouselings.  The other buildings that I'd like to compare it with have been packed so I'll have to do that on the other side.

 I've done a lot of the Greystone Village buildings and I'm trying some new things.  Since this building has a tile roof, instead of a wood shingle roof, I went with a variegated red tile.  It was fun to play with the color mix to get a more natural looking roof.  The rest of the Lost island buildings tend to have this tile roof so it'll be a nice addition to the wood shingle schemes I've already done.

The Greystone has been a theme here for a long time but I think the next step will be to add some variations to the stones.  I'll probably do that with the next several residences but stick with the more monochrome grey for working buildings like shops, forges, warehouses etc.. 

I've also skipped on putting magnets in this building as the magnets seem to have found themselves packed up already.  It holds together very well as is and each level is in two parts that are offset from the level below.  I'll likely put magnets in the bottom level at least just to encourage it to stay together through vigorous rotations but it seemed to spin and slide and stick together as it is so no rush on it... one more thing to remember on the other side.

 The roof tile started as an Amethyst (Secret Weapon) wash over the black base followed with a Gory Red (Reaper) Dry-brush then patch dry-brush areas... some with Phoenix Red (Reaper) and other areas with Scrofulous Brown (Vallejo). 

The printer error is also visible from the outside rear of the model as a elongated window but I just painted it to resemble wood slats and moved on.  I think it adds some character to the model!

Pack Pack
Paint Paint
Zoom Zoom!