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Friday, August 7, 2020

Joan of Arc 15mm Core Game, GW Forest Goblin Spider Riders, an Epicast Stomper Tune-up in progress and fun with static grass!

The Joan of Arc game is so ambitious!  Its a board game, a Tanletop Mini Game, its a Historical Game, its a Fantasy Game. It has an RPG and its almost an action RPG right out of the box... It even has aerial combat because.... Angels and Dragons... whew!  Its gonna be a fun ride!


From the core box: The Tarasque, The Unicorn, The Archangel Gabriel, 4 Angels, 2 Bullock Wagons.

As you can see you can go full on fantasy right out of the starter box... I think one of the scenarios is a werewolf hunt even... or you can stay with the historical scenarios. Its a great transitional game.

These were all sprayed a dark camo green primer (Rustoleum), damp-brushed with white craft paint and washed with Secret Weapon (SW) Washes.  The wagons then got a dry-brush of Sunny Flesh (Vallejo(V)) to make the wood pop.


Below is the tray ready for re-interment in the game box... In this Golden Era of Mega-Games I'm going to have to put some thought into how to condense the numerous expansions.




The angels got sky themed bases to go with the sky tiles in the aerial combat portion of the game.  Sky Blue (Warpaints) Stipple with white, wash with Blue (SW).  White robes are layered Graveyard Bone and Splintered Bone from the (Reaper) Bone Triad.   Gold is Brass Casings (SW) Flesh Wash (SW) dry-brush Silver (V).






 Being easily distracted by shiny things... I was unable to simply put the static grass applicator back into its box and decided to fix a long standing problem... namely my ancient 40K second edition Epicast Stompa!  Its never stood well on its own and is heavy enough to take out models it happen to fall on...doh! So I thought I'll just slap a base on it and its "problem solved!" ... 





...then I noticed that the old second edition paint-job looked really, really, dated so... doing something I very rarely do... I decided to do a bit of an update.  These are the pictures of its original state except for some black lining I started to do before remembering to snap a photo.  I'm going to preserve some elements of the original and bring it up to date without starting from scratch.  Well, that's the plan anyway!


The completed Forest Goblin Spider Riders. Ready for an Oldhammer rumble!

Speaking of a rumble I literally hate this new Blogger interface!  Its more primitive than its predecessor and seems specifically designed to be rigid and unwieldy.  For example I'd like to put this sentence at the bottom of the page... but I can't do that without actually removing the picture below... fabulous improvement... This update would normally have taken be about 15 minutes to compose on the fly but I've been at this now for three hours and still can't get the words and the pictures to go where I want them.

MADE
  OF
 FAIL  

Wednesday, July 29, 2020

WiP Oldhammer Orcs and Gobbos

 Starting to think about painting again and began by tackling some projects that are lingering around the desk. I dislike having unboxed, unpainted, minis hanging about unless I'm working on them so when I came across an old Battle for Skull Pass box... stuffed with some extra bits I thought it would be a good way to knock some rust of the painting skills and clear some open box minis.

In previous, pre COVID-19 posts I knocked out the Night Goblins and Dwarves from the set... sans a Baggage train that is still sitting on the desk...
 Today I went to work on the Forest Goblin Spider Riders from the set and delved into the odds and ends that had hitched a ride in the box.

Like the rest of this project these are, in part, an experiment with painting directly on the plastic.  So far there has been no problems with adhesion but how durable this approach is remains to be seen.

The spider bases were dry-brushed Stormy Gray (Reaper (R)), dry-brushed White (Apple Barrel craft paint (CP) washed with Sewer Water (Secret Weapon (SW)), Stumps are Sunny Flesh (Vallejo (VP)) with a wash of Seraphim Sepia (Citadel (GW)) Stones are Sky Gray (R) and sky gray lightened with White (CP) tiny spiders are Marigold Yellow (R) Brushed with Sunny Flesh (VP).
The spiders were intimidating to look at but turned out to be fun and easy.

The whole model was dry-brushed White (CP) then the Yellow areas were washed with Yellow Snow (SW), the Eyes painted Hexwraith Green (GW), and the legs/carapace washed with Armor Wash (SW). These were painted on the sprue and the clip joins touched up with Sky gray (RP).

This is a fast Tabletop finish that did not involve much cleaning of mold lines etc.  The casts are relatively clean with almost zero flash.
 For odds and ends there was an Orc Chariot and an Orc Command Group.

The chariot was tricksey to build and seems to have a lot of optional extra bits... added to the bits box of course... For the Command Group one extra set of legs and a boar were in the box and would have permitted a single model to be mounted... I opted to save the bits for later and went with a foot command of Champion, Standard Bearer, and Musician.
Skin was US Army reflective green (Panzer Colors line of Vallejo) and a Thrakka Green (GW) wash, Strong Tone (Army Painter (AP)).  Blood Red (GW) eyes and Standard Horn... this Horn will be revisited for shading before being wrapped up...

Rusty metals are Brown Rust (SW), Strong Tone (AP) and a drybrush of Silver (VP) thinned with Armor Wash (SW).

Hair effects are Rust Brown (SW) Heavy dry-brush of White (CP) wash with Just Red (SW).

Blue Orc Banner... Monster Brown (AP), dry-brush White CP, Wash with Blue (SW) light dry-brush with Sunny Flesh (R).

Exposed wood of the Chariot using Monster Brown (AP) wash with Dark Sepia (SW) dry-brush Sunny Flesh (VP)

Still on the desk: Part 3 of Hab 3, Joan of Arc angels and wagons, Raging Heroes Executrix unit. That should make enough space to set about a revamp of the work space and better organizing the pile of stuff waiting its turn.

Tuesday, July 7, 2020

Forward Base Habitat 3 construction process part 2

 One of the common issues with MDF buildings is that they look like MDF buildings.  Part of this is the way they interlock with visible joins but another way is that the overlap surfaces tend to be ignored in terms of details.

Antenocitis Workshop addresses the second issue by including a detail card for the end-caps.  This glues in place and ensures that the nooks and crannies have detailing that is thematically similar to the rest of the model. 


 These thin cards are easily attached with tacky glue or Super-Phatic (very thin, strong, PVA).  I clamp them in place for a few minutes to ensure a strong bond.
 Here is a "before" shot showing the plain end-caps.  Since the MDF is pre-painted it actually looks fine as it is... but its gonna be so much better after!


 To the right the end-caps have been installed and the detailing is very nice.  You will notice a difference in color between the edges of the end-caps and the base MDF.  This is easily sorted later with a quick touch-up pass using Nut Brown (Reaper) paint.











Clamping up the rest of the assembled shell.
 The remaining bits.  The two topmost thin strips that we were careful not to glue into place during the build, the roof/lid, and the end-caps for them.  Its best to wait to install the end-caps for these parts until after the resin goes in.  For the most part they work if the ends are aligned but small differences in the shell construction can be adjusted for in the final fit of these.
 Moving on to the remaining resin. Some of the resin was installed earlier in "part 1". To the left is what remains. (There is one extra locker shown as I was touching up a part from a previous Hab 3).

The large bunk wall usually requires a hot water bath to adjust for warping.  This is likely due to the big hole in it for the bunk assembly.  Its easy to straighten and when the bunk is attached to the wall it reinforces the shape nicely.
 At this point all the remaining resin gets pre-fitted, sanded as required to adjust the fit and then painted.  These are often a very tight fit that should be adjusted via sanding the edges of the resin bits until they fit snugly but don't require force to get into position. Keep in mind that the height of the resin will also likely need to be adjusted to be level with the top of the MDF.  I failed to notice that during this build and the top retaining strips were very tricky to get installed.

 The pre-fit of these parts is critical and should not be skipped.
 The painted walls can now be slid into place.  I align them using the printed floor graphics.

   Antenocitis Workshop really excels at minute details and photographic elements like video screens etc.  All the graphic elements here are from them except the tabletop which is repurposed from some hobby packaging.


Once the interior resin is in place the Topmost strips are finally glued into position and  the remaining end-caps can be installed.

Test fit the roof/lid for alignment mark with pencil and glue in the lid end-caps.  There can be some variation so be careful to get the alignment right before gluing these in place. Carefully trim the overhang, if any, with a sharp hobby knife.


Now its touch up time.  Go round the whole model with Nut Brown and toch up the spots where the MDF shows bare... like where it was previously attached to the frame etc... 
 A "in progress" view to the right.  you can clearly see the difference between the touched up end caps and those not touched up.
All that remains for "part 3" are the exterior acrylic lights... which are a tiny bit tricksey..., the interior/exterior scatter, and the lower "feet"  which are unique to Hab 3 and help it interlock when stacking with other buildings in the series (specifically Habitat 1 or Habitat 4) and should not be installed until their companion buildings top lugs have been installed to make sure they line up properly. 

Part 3 will be a bit coming as I'll want to finish this after building Habitat 1 or 4...

Cheers

Friday, July 3, 2020

Forward Base Habitat 3 construction process part 1

 This is the second Habitat 3 I've built from the Forward Base Kickstarter the new retail versions of which are available from Antenocitis Workshop. The new versions have some differences mainly in the replacement of the resin elements with MDF and acrylic parts.  One of the advantages of the newer design is that the door are operational while here, in this first generation model, they are not.  I like to think of these doors and windows as variably permeable adaptive solid holograms but the new doors are quite nice with a more traditional air-lock feel.
 Building on my previous experience with this kit I first looked at what accessories were available.  The build instructions assume the basic model without upgrades or add-ons. They do mention a critical area to leave unglued if installing the interior later or if it needs to be removed for painting.

The first step was to identify what acrylic accessories I had available and where they needed to be installed.
 Installation follows a familiar pattern: Cut out the location with a strong hobby blade. Remove the protective plastic film and pre-fit the acrylic part making any adjustments necessary to get the piece to fit snugly but not require the part to be forced into position. Usually these are slightly over-sized to the opening so some filing to actual size is needed.  Filing MDF is tricky so I tend to file the acrylic along the length of the edges.
 Before the final installation I paint the detail areas like door outlines, lettering, caution markings, and window rings then attach the acrylic using tiny amounts of Tacky Glue. With all these MDF projects use as little glue as possible and avoid getting it on the acrylic surfaces.  Tacky Glue works well because if a little glue makes it onto the acrylic it can usually be quickly removed without damaging the finish. NEVER use super glue for this as it will cloud the acrylic finish even if it doesn't directly touch it.
 After getting all the acrylic installed I add on some of the resin parts, like vents and power connectors, that require a hole be made in the MDF to avoid having to punch a hole in the assembled walls. I also paint these before gluing them on.  I use super glue for these resin attachments and would note that the superglue sets VERY rapidly between resin and this MDF so its important to get the placement perfect on contact.


Its time to start building the shell.

These models are pre-colored and I will have already painted the details on them. I leave the weathering until the end but doing it now would also work out.

For MDF to MDF joins I use Super Phatic glue which sets quickly and gives a strong bond with very small amounts of glue.
Starting at the top build the bay window.  The sides of the bay have a small "T" printed on the top most tab to indicate which should be on top.

As always dry fit all parts before gluing. The accuracy is generally very good but occasionally there with be a peg that doesn't gracefully fit and requires a little adjustment with a file or hobby knife.

Side walls next aligning with the floor detail.

Rear wall connecting the two side walls then the two front panels.  These are a little fidgety to get square and benefit from clamps on the inside walls and rubber bands on the outside walls as shown in the photo with the clamps... note the hard to see rubber bands on the outside edges.

Pre-fit the topmost long strips... DO NOT GLUE... you want these to fit right and to help hold the shape of the shell but will need to remove them to install the interior resin walls.  The bump out goes on the side of the bay window.  check the fit of the central roof panel to make sure its in the right place.

Next the top angled parts with the printed solar cell pattern can be glued into place.  They don't interfere with resin placement and will help establish the shape of the shell.

Next Flip the model and install the lower panels. These get glued in.

Thats all for this part!

Next time I'll put in the resin interior, build the add-ons, and do the exterior finishing.

Cheers



Wednesday, June 17, 2020

Sleep Box Sleep for Cheap in the Undertown!


 Sleep Box!

This is a single piece resin cast from Antenocitis Workshop.

Sleep Box is a street-side, automated, place to crash for the night with a capacity for two people.  You can easily put one in a standard parking space.


I decided to go with a warm yellow orange color scheme to make them stand out in the grim, grey, Undertown. These are a step down from the Tenement and offer zero personalization... except to the exterior... Sorry the lifestyle you ordered is currently out of stock... and some shotgun damage.  It pays for these things to be sturdy in the rough and tumble of the Undertown.











These were sprayed white washed with Sun Yellow and Lantern Yellow (Reaper) then stippled in Yellow Shade (Reaper) the windows are Silver (Vallejo) with Aqua Wash (Secret Weapon.  These required no assembly or cleanup just a quick scrub before a Rustoleum White Paint +Primer.

They come with photo print adverts but no "Sleep Box" text so I printed Sleep Box in 18 Font out of notepad. The cool "Sorry..." decal is also available from Antenocitis Woprkshop.

Archaica Schola Wargaming shop opens in the Undertown!


 I'm so excited to show you Archaica Schola Wargaming a new 28mm MDF kit from Antenocitis Workshop!

This is the stock kit plus the upgrade pack with a few additional decals added but otherwise straight out of the box.  No painting or weathering was done.  I expect I'll dirty up the outside of it eventually but I'm trying to decide where it fits into my building group.
 I've assigned it for the moment to the Undertown.. which is where all real wargames shops reside... but the building looks a little upscale for the neighborhood so it may be relocated to Midtown or the Mall... I'll probably do weathering at that point to make it blend better.

I added LED light to the ground floor but left the upper level without illumination while I think of an unobtrusive way to accomplish that.
 The kit is pretty spectacular and features a large clear acrylic roof so you can see the game room while playing... of course that is waaaaay tooo much sun for your average gamer to endure so I think it'll be an evening hotspot and mostly empty by the light of day.

Still... it does a great job of advertising that the buildings have live spaces inside.... which is awesome!
I ended up gluing in the game tables and the advertising walls instead of magnetizing them this time because they are easy to maneuver models around or on.  There are no resin parts in this kit and everything is MDF or clear acrylic.

The cute anime girl is from a Guilty Crown radio control car decal set.  I also got a girl in a wheelchair to mark a handicap parking space and some block text for another outside wall from the same sheet.  Everything else comes with the kit.
 Stocked snack shelves of snacks, hobby supplies, paints and washes, and an assortment of tabletop miniature game products as well as three display cases for painted miniatures... lots of fun to be had in here!
 This place will probably serve as the group hangout for the RPG I'm brewing up around the Kingdom Death: Death High mini line... I'm thinking a kind of Sci-Fi Knights of the Dinner Table meets Haganai and Angel Beats feel with a group of friends who rotate through playing different RPGs as well as dealing with life in a "Sci-Fi Supernatural Martial Arts Comedy" setting.  Might be fun... might be a mess... we'll see!
 A view of the Handicap parking space which is usually under an overhang.
Archaica Schola in situ.

Saturday, May 30, 2020

A-Z Mart Pristine and Weathered


 The pristine version of the A-Z Mart from Antenocitis Workshop.

I've some models from Mantic Games Star Saga here for scale.

The pristine version differs in a few details from the weathered version so there is a side by side look at them a bit farther down.
 The pristine version has photo graphics for the shelves  so it appears fully stocked and the cooler/freezer case doors, like the windows, are unbroken.  The A-Z Mart pristine version is ready to welcome tiny customers!
I'll want to sort out a generic mat suitable for Post Apocalypse  games... in truth one may be kicking around the workspace but I have yet to dig it out...  baby steps!

The A-Z Mart is prepainted MDF with lighting accomplished by LED key-chain torches, decals from Antenocitis Workshop and Forge World weathering powders for the general grime.
 Side by side with the weathered version... the weathered version used a different process involving the  removal the protective coating from some of the painted surfaces before laser cutting them on a high enough setting to scorch the edges a bit.  This actually worked quite well and is very visible on the white surfaces like the letters and the front window frames.  The white surface gets discolored a bit well beyond the edges and gives it an aged appearance.


The broken glass of the windows and coolers really screams "I've been looted" and one of the coolers even has a zombie graphic in it!

I'll do the Petrol station in this before and after plan probably using the weathered versions for Fallout and the pristine versions for Supers.

Back to the desk!