Keshryii from Raging Heroes is an amazing model.
Her retinue, modeled in her own extreme image, is an example of powerful a personality she must be.
Lust Elves are shape shifters. the more powerful personalities among them determine the shapes of their followers... in the case of Keshryii, whose form is one of the more extreme, that personality must be powerful indeed!
I've painted this batch as proxies for the Grotesques of my Dark Eldar Blood Rain Kabal. These models really illustrate the feeling of horror that the flesh shapers of the Drukhari must evoke. A horror made all the more terrible by the fact that the grotesques choose this existence and pay the Haemunculi dearly for the procedures that remake a normal Dark Eldar into such a fearsome visage.
I've continued refining the red process in particular and made some progress with cool highlights and lowlights.
Flesh also got a lot of attention being a wash of Sunny Flesh (Vallejo) over the base coat of Krylon Camouflage Khaki which had been dry-brushed with Apple Barrel Sandstone. A Flesh Wash from Secret Weapon was then applied followed by layering Sunny Flesh and Fairy Flesh (Vallejo).
I love blue hair... probably the Anime geek in me but I do like it a lot!
Hair was Nightmare Black (Reaper) a heavy dry-brush of Void-Shield Blue (Warpaints), a Sapphire Wash (Secret Weapon) and a very light dry-brush of Void-Shield blue and top dusting of pure white.
Because the centaurs model themselves after Keshryii they all tend toward similar colors and were worked up using the same process.
When started working on the model I kept seeing the cover of the old Chrome 2 supplement for Cyberpunk... and one of the old Gamma World covers. I didn't look at them for reference or anything but I wanted to convey the metal augmentations. Keshryii isn't just a shapeshifter... shes got ecstatic minions actually grafted into her form and the joins are very chrome!
A size comparison with the centaurs and Canoness Veridyan (GW).
As you can see the centaurs are massive!
A couple of views of the assembled troop.
they are even more frightening as a group than as individuals.
A final comparison with Centaur Trooper, Canoness Veridyan, and a Void Elf Hunter.
There is also a set of these in Fantasy Version. But I may try to knock out the rest of my Lust Elf Sci-Fi stock first...
Choices, choices!
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Showing posts with label Drukhari. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Drukhari. Show all posts
Sunday, February 18, 2018
Saturday, February 3, 2018
Lust Elf Centaurs (SF ver.) assembled
I am guessing that Benoit over at Raging Heroes has some really, really, really scary nightmares...
Fortunately when he wakes up those demented dreams get translated into spectacular miniatures for all the rest of us!
I just finished building this unit of Lust Elf Centaurs and they are from some of the more disturbing of the nightmare creatures that have escaped his fevered dreams...
These are the Sci-Fi versions and, if I'm clever, I'll build the fantasy versions next... right after the Sci-Fi Centaur Champion of course! Reason being is that these are complex miniatures... really more accurately... model kits as each one has 23 parts (excluding the base) and it took me until the third one to come up with an efficient building process.
The first three models took me a couple of days to sort out then I got the hang of it and the remaining ones were finished in an afternoon.
The process I settled on is:
1. Keep each model separate from the others and do not mix the parts. The models are shipped segregated in bags based on the number of points of contact with the base. Each model has a unique letter system so you can safely build each bag out of the pile.
2. Completely build each model before moving to the next. Even when working out of a bag of two models.
3. Remove the parts from the sprue ONLY as they are needed. The parts have letter codes that make construction much easier. Just match the letters (M to M etc). There is room for posing and variation within the matched parts and, of course you can swap some around but you'll want to get a feel for the way the models work before doing a lot of that.
4. Clean the part, prefit the part and trim if necessary, and install it before moving to the next part.
5. The order the parts are fitted makes a huge difference. This is why the first model took longer to build than the final three.
Here is my part building priority:
1. Find the point(s) of contact part.
2. If there is a single point of contact part construct the torso by finding the torso part with the same letter code as the point of contact piece. Attach the matching head making sure that it is facing in the proper direction. Just look for the ribs and abs and put the head on facing in that direction.
Then attach the point of contact arms to the torso. If you line the parts up to look as natural and seamless as possible you will likely be in the right alignment. Its a good idea to clean up and/or fill this join at this point since access to it may be limited later.
Attach the newly constructed "leg" to the main body of the model being careful to fit it at an angle that will make your model stand the way you want it too. The main body has channels and tightly fitting this first piece into the channels will usually do the trick but you can vary the attitude and angle quite a lot if you desire.
I used Super glue on one face and accelerator on the other which helped immensely but required rigorous pre-fitting before making the adhesion attempt.
2a. If the model has two points of contact build one just that same as if it were a single and attach it to the main body. Build the second assembly the same way always following the pattern of:
head to torso
Arm of contact to torso
second arm to torso
torso to main body
When attaching the second torso assembly make sure the (2) points of contact share a level plain and glue the second assembly into place.
3. Attach the assembly to the base.
4. Build each remaining torso assembly (head to torso, arms to torso) and attach them to the main body.
5. Attach the upper torso. These have a great alignment with the abs in the center while still having great dynamic twists in the upper shoulder area.
6. Add the arms. These are one piece each.
7. Assemble the Head (2 parts)
8. Add the head.
9. Go back through the model and get any cleaning and filling that might remain. There should not be much as you will have done this as you went... lots of fiddly bits to dodge if you skipped the cleanup during the build!
These are pretty large models that I will be using as proxies for Drukhari Grotesques... especially in Ynnari builds. You can see Canonness Veridyan for scale.
Below is the group of six.
Today's goal... build Centaur Champion Keshirii (SF)
Then I might have to knock out building the fantasy versions of these while I remember how to do it! I think there are nine of those plus the fantasy version of the champion... then... whew... back to painting!
I didn't realize I'd do a building commentary so didn't take pictures during the build. When I do the Fantasy versions I'll make some step by step photos.
Fortunately when he wakes up those demented dreams get translated into spectacular miniatures for all the rest of us!
I just finished building this unit of Lust Elf Centaurs and they are from some of the more disturbing of the nightmare creatures that have escaped his fevered dreams...
These are the Sci-Fi versions and, if I'm clever, I'll build the fantasy versions next... right after the Sci-Fi Centaur Champion of course! Reason being is that these are complex miniatures... really more accurately... model kits as each one has 23 parts (excluding the base) and it took me until the third one to come up with an efficient building process.
The first three models took me a couple of days to sort out then I got the hang of it and the remaining ones were finished in an afternoon.
The process I settled on is:
1. Keep each model separate from the others and do not mix the parts. The models are shipped segregated in bags based on the number of points of contact with the base. Each model has a unique letter system so you can safely build each bag out of the pile.
2. Completely build each model before moving to the next. Even when working out of a bag of two models.
3. Remove the parts from the sprue ONLY as they are needed. The parts have letter codes that make construction much easier. Just match the letters (M to M etc). There is room for posing and variation within the matched parts and, of course you can swap some around but you'll want to get a feel for the way the models work before doing a lot of that.
4. Clean the part, prefit the part and trim if necessary, and install it before moving to the next part.
5. The order the parts are fitted makes a huge difference. This is why the first model took longer to build than the final three.
Here is my part building priority:
1. Find the point(s) of contact part.
2. If there is a single point of contact part construct the torso by finding the torso part with the same letter code as the point of contact piece. Attach the matching head making sure that it is facing in the proper direction. Just look for the ribs and abs and put the head on facing in that direction.
Then attach the point of contact arms to the torso. If you line the parts up to look as natural and seamless as possible you will likely be in the right alignment. Its a good idea to clean up and/or fill this join at this point since access to it may be limited later.
Attach the newly constructed "leg" to the main body of the model being careful to fit it at an angle that will make your model stand the way you want it too. The main body has channels and tightly fitting this first piece into the channels will usually do the trick but you can vary the attitude and angle quite a lot if you desire.
I used Super glue on one face and accelerator on the other which helped immensely but required rigorous pre-fitting before making the adhesion attempt.
2a. If the model has two points of contact build one just that same as if it were a single and attach it to the main body. Build the second assembly the same way always following the pattern of:
head to torso
Arm of contact to torso
second arm to torso
torso to main body
When attaching the second torso assembly make sure the (2) points of contact share a level plain and glue the second assembly into place.
3. Attach the assembly to the base.
4. Build each remaining torso assembly (head to torso, arms to torso) and attach them to the main body.
5. Attach the upper torso. These have a great alignment with the abs in the center while still having great dynamic twists in the upper shoulder area.
6. Add the arms. These are one piece each.
7. Assemble the Head (2 parts)
8. Add the head.
9. Go back through the model and get any cleaning and filling that might remain. There should not be much as you will have done this as you went... lots of fiddly bits to dodge if you skipped the cleanup during the build!
These are pretty large models that I will be using as proxies for Drukhari Grotesques... especially in Ynnari builds. You can see Canonness Veridyan for scale.
Below is the group of six.
Today's goal... build Centaur Champion Keshirii (SF)
Then I might have to knock out building the fantasy versions of these while I remember how to do it! I think there are nine of those plus the fantasy version of the champion... then... whew... back to painting!
I didn't realize I'd do a building commentary so didn't take pictures during the build. When I do the Fantasy versions I'll make some step by step photos.
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